Utah Vacation-Going Home

Today was our last day in Utah. We started the day by packing sandwiches, eating what we could, and throwing away what we couldn’t. We went through the check-out checklist one more time and left the house around 8:05 AM.

The drive up through Price Canyon was gorgeous. We tried to drive straight through, but we did stop once to take a few pictures. Before reaching the airport, we stopped for gas at Costco. We also bought some drinks in preparation for lunch. I was looking for a park near the airport but couldn’t find one. Instead, we returned the Rogue and carried our stuff into the terminal.

Salt Lake City has a beautiful airport. It has lots of open spaces and places to hang out. Near the check-in area, we found some tables and ate lunch. Afterwards, we checked in our bags and headed for the gate.

Our plane at the gate at Salt Lake City

Our flight home was on JetBlue. We boarded and taxied to the runway. Along the way, we had to detour around some construction. It’s not every day that you see a flagman while taxing an airplane.

Flagman on the taxiway at Salt Lake City

The flight to Orlando was pretty cool. The mountains around the Salt Lake Valley were closer than ever as we climbed out. We soon entered the clouds, then came out between layers. I eventually fell asleep and woke up over the Gulf of Mexico. Soon we passed Tampa and descended into Orlando. It was nice to see green after weeks of nothing but tan.

Beautiful clouds and shafts of light near Tampa, Florida

Back in Orlando, we picked up our luggage, caught the van to the parking lot, and found Mom’s Escape. We loaded our bags and climbed in. I started the car, but nothing happened. I tried again and nothing happened. I sat there and thought, “Now what?”. The thought of my bad experience with the CR-V ran through my mind. I thought, “Are we going to be stranded here?” For some reason I opened and closed the door. I turned the key one more time, and the car started. The relief poured over me. We were soon on our way home. Another fantastic National Parks vacation in the books.

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Utah Vacation-Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Today’s plan was to go back to Colorado and explore the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. We decided that we wanted to see this area while thinking about the trip months ago. The only issue with this destination was the distance. We knew we’d be in the car all day and we still wouldn’t be able to see everything.

We started the day by eating breakfast, packing the cooler, and loading the Rogue. Then we were off to Colorado. We followed the interstate east to Grand Junction, then continued south through Montrose to Gunnison National Park.

David and Susan at the park entrance

We followed the road up out of the valley and stopped at South Rim Visitor Center. Unfortunately, it was closed for lunch. Next to us in the parking lot was a car from Ohio. The driver was heading for the car, so Mom said, “O-H” and waited for the standard response, which never came. The lady asked, “Oh, was I supposed to say ‘I-O’? I’m not from Ohio. This is just a rental.”

We were hungry, so we looked for picnic tables on the map. We stopped at Pulpit Rock Overlook for a picnic lunch in the bushes. During lunch, I walked across the street to use the restroom. What I found was the nicest outhouse I’ve ever seen. Who makes an outhouse out of logs?

High class outhouse

After lunch, we headed west along the South Rim Road. We stopped and hiked at each overlook on the way up to High Point. The views down into the canyon were incredible. The north wall is nearly vertical. At its deepest point, it is 2,250 feet down to the river below.

View down into Black Canyon

View of the North Rim from the South Rim

David holds on tight at one of the overlooks

Painted Wall from one of the overlooks

You may have noticed that many rocks and formations have names that represent what someone saw when they looked at it, for example the Wooden Shoe. On this trip, one overlook is called Dragon Point. I’m not sure if the name came from the rock, but I could clearly see a giant lizard sitting on the rock below. Someone must have cut off its tail.

Giant rock lizard near Dragon Point

On the way back from High Point, we stopped at the South Rim Visitor Center. After a brief stop, we continued down to East Portal. The road down to East Portal is very steep – like 16% grade. It is also very twisty. On one of the many switchbacks, we came across a deer and her little baby Bambi standing beside the road. I’m glad they weren’t on the road because there’s no way I would have swerved to miss them and risked going over the edge.

Fishermen in the Gunnison River near East Portal

The road continued all the way down to the Gunnison River. We stopped and saw some fishermen wading in the water. We continued further down the road until it ended at the Gunnison Dam. On the way back, we stopped at another pull off and walked down the river's edge. The water was ice cold, as one would expect, coming from the bottom of a huge dam.

By this time, it was getting late, and we had a long drive ahead of us. Back in Montrose, we decided that a shake would be nice, so we looked on the map and found Crash Burger right along our route. We stopped for a shared shake, then continued back to Utah.

Crash Burger in Montrose, Colorado

Back in Utah, we pulled off the interstate at Harley’s Dome view area. Andrew and I walked up the short, steep trail to the viewpoint. The landscape was aglow with magic light. There were signs for elk in the area and I was hoping I might see a small herd somewhere in the distance. No such luck.

Back on the interstate, we continued to Green River. We stopped one final time and topped off the tank for our drive to Salt Lake City tomorrow morning.

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Utah Vacation–Arches NP Day 4

Today’s plan was to get up early and hike to the Delicate Arch in Arches National Park. We had purchased a 7:00 AM reservation yesterday, so we didn’t have to get up quite as early. Susan and Mom decided to sit this one out.

Andrew and I arrived at the park entrance at 7:20. There was a somewhat long line for the left lane, but the right lane had only two cars, so we chose the right lane and zipped right through. We drove directly to Delicate Arch, and we were not alone. It seemed like everyone wanted to do that hike.

Earlier in the week, we heard that this hike was hard. I didn’t really believe that assessment. The trail is 1.5 miles long and climbs 480 feet. The trail from the parking lot passes Wolf Ranch with a bridge over a small, nearly dried up stream, then crosses a ridge before climbing a long solid rock slope. The trail winds around a hill to the left before turning back for the "Aha" moment.

The arch was very popular, as was expected. Many people stood in a makeshift line, waiting for their chance to be photographed under the arch. Andrew and I explored the area and viewed the arch from every possible angle.

David standing near Delicate Arch

Panoramic view of Delicate Arch

After about a half hour, we started the hike back to the parking lot. We took our time on the way down and found a few surprises that we missed on the way up. For example, there is a window in the hill that provides a different view of Delicate Arch.

Andrew and David in the window near Delicate Arch

Just before reaching the parking lot, we could see another arch in the distance. We weren’t sure what it was, but thought it might be Turret Arch, but the alignment seemed wrong. When we got back to the car, we looked at the map. Our best guess is that it was Elephant Arch.

With our main goal accomplished, we headed up to Devil’s Garden to see the two arches we skipped yesterday – Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch.

David near Tunnel Arch

David near Pine Tree Arch

With all arches visited, we headed out of Arches for the last time. Near the entrance, we made one last stop at the Visitor Center to buy shirts. I’ve been collecting long sleeve T-shirts from each National Park and needed to add an Arches shirt to the collection.

Andrew and I were done hiking in Arches, but we weren’t ready to return to Green River. We decided to go eat in Moab, then explore the area around the potash ponds. On the way into town, we finally stopped at the visitor sign that we had passed many times during our visit.

David by the Moab welcome sign

In Moab, we needed to choose a place to eat. Earlier in the trip, we read about a place called Quesadilla Mobila. It sounded good and the price was right, so that’s where we headed. We parked on the street, then walked to the Moab Food Truck Park. There was a lot to choose from, but we stuck with our initial choice and ordered a quesadilla to share.

David at the Moab Food Truck Park

While eating, Susan called and asked us to pick up some tissues. After eating, we stopped at Walker Drug, then continued to Corona Arch.

The Corona Arch trailhead is just off the road along the Colorado River, west of Moab. The attraction of this hike, other than the arch, is the railroad line that leads to the potash facility further down the road. We climbed the hill up to the tracks, looked at the cut that the railroad made, then decided to skip the hike.

Next, we drove out to see the potash ponds. We had already seen them from Dead Horse Point, but we wanted a closer look. We drove past the potash plant to the end of the paved road. From this point on, it would be steep and rough. We saw a long line of customized Jeeps coming down the hill. We weren’t sure that the Rogue could handle it, but a guy in a Toyota told us we’d be fine. So up we went. The road climbed and twisted its way up onto a mesa, where we found the ponds. While up there, we saw a huge black smoke cloud rising in the east. We never did figure out what caused it.

Our final stop for the day was Lions Park, on the Colorado River in Moab. It is the epicenter of bike trails along the river and into town. We walked across the hiking bridge to the north side of the river, then watched as people launched and recovered boats from the river. Finally, we returned to Green River.

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Utah Vacation–Arches NP Day 3

Today we planned to spend the entire day in Arches National Park. We purchased our reservation for today months ago. The reservation was for 6:00 AM. To arrive on time, I got up at 4:00 and made breakfast burritos for the road. We gathered our things and were out the door before sunrise. Mom decided to sit this one out.

We entered the entry line to the park at 6:20. Unlike the previous visits, we were third in line and were in the park within a few minutes. We drove straight through to Devil’s Garden. The plan was to hike to all the arches in the Devil’s Garden trail system.

Devil's Garden trail information

On the trail, we soon came to the split for Tunnel Arch and Pine Tree Arch. We decided to skip those for now because we wanted to see Landscape Arch in the best light possible. Soon we reached Landscape Arch.

Landscape Arch is probably the second most famous arch in the park. The arch spans over 300 feet and is very narrow and fragile. It is a wonder to see because it seems too impossibly thin to be able to support itself. Actually, in 1991, a 60-foot-long chunk fell from the arch. The park service closed the part of the trail that goes up to and behind the arch. Even so, the view from the end of the trail is still spectacular.

David sitting near Landscape Arch

We continued hiking up towards the split to Navajo and Partition Arches. Just before the split, Andrew told us that he was not feeling well. To me, this was becoming a common and somewhat frustrating occurrence. I assumed that he was just wore out from the previous day and he needed a short break. I decided to continue to the Partition Arch alone; about 0.3 miles down the side trail. I nearly ran there and back to avoid keeping them waiting. When I returned to where I left them, they were gone.

Alone now, I didn’t know what to do. There was no way for me to contact them and I didn’t know where they went. They could have done one of four things: gone off trail to throw up, returned to the car, hiked to Navajo Arch, or continued to Double-O Arch. I decided to wait and see if they’d show up, so I climbed a large rock with an overhanging rock where I could see the trails in all directions. I sat up there for at least 10 minutes and they didn’t show up. At this point, I decided that they must have returned to the car, and that I really wanted to see the Double-O Arch before leaving Arches. So, I hiked as fast as possible to Double–O Arch so that I would either catch up to them or be able to return to the car as soon as possible. I did not see them along the trail, so after a very brief look at the arch, I turned around and raced back toward the parking lot.

At a high point on the trail, my watch vibrated, indicating that I had received an email. I thought that was completely unexpected, being so far out of civilization. So, I decided to send a text to Susan and Andrew. To my surprise, they responded. Turns out they went to Navajo Arch soon after I left for Partition Arch. I was not quick enough to see them take that split as I was returning from my short hike. They were now going to Partition Arch. We decided to meet where the trail splits from the main trail.

Once reunited, I was angry and tired and wanted to be done. Susan and Andrew wanted to continue. We’re not sure what was up with Andrew’s sickness. Susan was concerned that maybe his bowels were becoming twisted. When that happens, he cannot eat or drink without feeling like he is going to vomit. This happened when he was very young and required surgery to fix, so she was justifiably concerned. But apparently, this was not the case today.  He was feeling better now. As I cooled off, I decided to go ahead and return to Double-O Arch with them.

The trail to Double-O Arch is amazing and challenging. There are several places that are steep and many that are along high and narrow fins. I’m sure some people see that and decide it isn’t worth it. The views from the fins are incredible. They are basically the highest points in the park, and you can see forever in all directions. It is also a great place to see down into Devil’s Garden.

The Double-O Arch is pretty amazing, too. The trail leads right up to the arch. Once there, you can climb through the lower arch and continue up behind the upper arch for a great view down through both arches. Most people stop at the lower arch, so you feel like you have the whole arch to yourself.

David approaches Double-O Arch

At this point, we had to decide to either continue to Dark Angel, return the way we came, or take the Primitive Trail back to parking lot. We chose the latter, since it only added a mile, and we’d get to see Devil’s Garden up close.

The Primitive Trail was much harder than the main trail. It was also less clearly marked. In several cases, we had to turn back to find the main trail again. In one case, it turned out that we were on the wildlife trail. We practically walked right up to a deer. It stopped and looked at us as if to say, “What are you doing on my trail? You have your own trail.” Then it turned and proceeded on its way.

A deer passes nearby along the Primitive Trail

At another point, we came across a Park Ranger heading in opposite direction. It was reassuring to know that we were in fact on the trail. He gave us some pointers to look out for ahead. Apparently a fair amount of people miss an important turn and get lost.

David admires Devil's Garden from the Primitive Trail

As we continued, I was most amazed by the fin crossings. They did not require any special equipment, but they were steep and had loose sand in places. This is certainly not a trail to take if you are unsure about your footing.

David and Susan on a fin on the Primitive Trail

Soon we left the fins behind and entered a dry wash. It was hot and we were now walking in loose sand rather than on hard rock. When we finally left the dry wash, it seemed like the trail was all uphill back to the main trail. And when we did reach the main trail, the wind was gusting strongly in our faces. The strong breeze felt nice, but we were tired and didn’t appreciate the extra challenge so close to the finish line. We decided to skip the branch down to Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch and headed straight to the parking lot.

It was now lunchtime and we needed to find a picnic table. On previous visits, we saw some nice tables between the fins near where we were parked. Unfortunately these were all full, so we drove back to Panorama Point. It was still very windy and a struggle to keep the napkins from blowing away.

The plan for the afternoon was to hike to Delicate Arch. Between the wind and our previous exertion of energy, we decided we’d reserve one more day at Arches and come back tomorrow.

Instead of hiking, we drove into Moab. Susan wanted to stop at Walker Drug, which by now was becoming a standard stop. Walker Drug is one of those “has it all” places that has food, souvenirs, snacks, etc.  After that stop, I wanted to stop and get a shake from Milt’s Stop & Eat, so we stopped there for the second time on the trip.

Back in Green River, we were pretty exhausted and all climbed back in bed for a short nap. When we woke up, we checked the Arches reservation page for open slots. We selected a 7:00 AM reservation.

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Utah Vacation–Capitol Reef NP Day 2

Today we planned to go back to Capitol Reef National Park. During our first visit, we wanted to hike a slot canyon and see the Hickman Natural Bridge, but it didn’t work out. We got a late start today, but it wasn’t a problem because our schedule was not packed full.

Our first stop was at Little Wild Horse Canyon. This canyon has a trail that splits and forms an 8-mile loop. We didn’t want to do the full loop, so we decided to take the branch to the right. We quickly left the dry wash and entered the slot. The slot wasn’t extremely deep, but it was very narrow in places. In some places, we could not place our feet side by side on the floor. In other places, it was impossible to stand up straight because the walls of the canyon leaned to one side.

David hiking in the narrow slot canyon

The information board claims that the trail is the most popular in the San Rafael Swell, and I don’t doubt it. In several places, we had to stop and wait for groups to pass us in the opposite direction. In one place another large group was made up of mostly young boys and the moms were not in control. I had to ask one of the boys to stop throwing rocks because people were on the trail. Really? Shaking my head.

In another spot, we discovered a crew making a video. They had a camera, sound guys, and an “actor”. I’m not sure what type of film it was, but the actor was dressed in a style reminiscent of Indiana Jones.

Andrew and I hiked nearly halfway through the canyon, to the point where it started to get wide again. Then we turned around and returned the way we came. The film crew was still there. The actor looked very hot in his leather jacket and fedora.

Our next stop was Capitol Reef National Park. We returned to the spot where we saw deer on the previous visit. We chose a picnic table and enjoyed our usual lunch under the trees. While there, we were joined by more deer. They didn’t seem to mind us being there at all.

David, Andrew, and Susan standing at the park entrance

After lunch, we drove to the Hickman Natural Bridge trailhead. Andrew and I started the hike, while Susan and Mom went back to Fruita to explore. The trail started in the valley near the Fremont River and climbed rapidly for the first half. Before long, we reached the bridge, took some pictures, then started back down. On the way back, we passed other small arches and had great views of the valley.

Andrew and David standing near Hickman Natural Bridge

Back in the parking lot, Susan was not there. We asked her to meet us at 5:30 and we were early. Andrew explored the area around the bridge crossing the Fremont River. At 5:29, Susan pulled into the parking lot, right on time.

As mentioned earlier, Hanksville has three popular places to eat. We had stopped at Stan’s Burger Shak twice already, so it was time for a change. Today, we stopped at Outlaw’s Roost for tacos. The place was not busy, and they took the extra time to describe all the menu options. We found a spot on the patio and waited for our tacos to arrive. They were small, but very good.

After eating, it was time to go back to Green River. We made it back before 8:00, so we did a little bit of grocery shopping. We all went to bed early in preparation for our early entry reservation into Arches the next day.

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Utah Vacation-Canyonlands NP Day 2

Today’s plan was to go back to Canyonlands National Park. Canyonlands is extremely large and divided into three areas. Today’s plan included exploring the area called The Needles.

Before leaving town, we stopped at the Melon Vine grocery store for some necessities. We also stopped to watch the eastbound Amtrak cross the Green River bridge.

The drive today took us east then south through Moab and into unexplored territory. On the way, we stopped at a rest area that was right next to Hole ‘N’ The Rock, which appeared to be an over-the-top tourist trap. We decided to skip it and continued towards The Needles.

Mom, Andrew, and Susan standing at the park entrance sign

Inside the park, we saw other interesting things. First, we passed Wilson Arch. It looked like an easy access arch that was right next to the highway. We decided we’d stop there on the way back home. Then we stopped at the Visitor Center. Next was a viewpoint of the Wooden Shoe. We stopped briefly, then continued on our way.

The next stop was at the end of the road, at Big Spring Canyon Overlook. This is the closest drive-up overlook to where the Green River meets the Colorado River, but it is too far away to see. All other access to the confluence is along unpaved roads that require vehicles with high clearance.

David relaxing in the shade

Andrew sitting in a cave

Returning the way we came, we stopped at Pothole Point. From here, we hiked an easy trail that took us along the top of a flat rock that was pitted with hundreds of potholes. From here, we could see for miles in all directions.

Then we took a dirt road down to the Elephant Hill trailhead. From here, many trails wind up and through The Needles. We hiked up about a mile before turning back. Using my imagination, I could see why they named it Elephant Hill. Andrew was not a believer. Exploring all of these trails would take all day.

David hiking along the Elephant Hill trail

On the way back toward the park entrance, we took the south loop and stopped at Cave Spring. According to the information signs, the location was popular with cowboys and outlaws. This was probably my favorite spot for several reasons. First, it was an easy hike, so Mom could join us. Second, it was shady and actually under rock overhangs along the lower half, and third, there was a spring, so it was like a little oasis. Also, to do the upper half of the trail, we had to climb an old, shaky ladder. You just gotta love a trail with ladders.

Mom, Susan, and David hiking along the Cave Spring trail

David and Susan hiking under the overhanging rocks

As promised, we made a quick stop at Wilson Arch on the way back home. The arch was so close to the highway that we didn’t even have to hike to get a good view.

Wilson Arch

By this time, we were getting hungry. I wanted to try out the Moab Diner, since it was too busy the first time we stopped. Well, it was busy again, so we ordered shakes and drank them at a picnic table outside. From here, I thought about the differences between Green River and Moab. Moab is a busy hub of activity with a constant flow of traffic flowing through. It has everything you would expect a small town to have and it is full life. Due to its proximity to Arches National Park, there is a constant stream of tourists who are ready to spend their money. Green River is a town that was abandoned by industry and bypassed by the Interstate. Most of its buildings are boarded up and the only traffic in town is locals and people stopping at the truck stops. It is quite the contrast.

After the shakes, we made a quick shopping stop at Village Market, then returned to Green River. After dark, I thought we should try to go see the stars again. This time, we went northwest about 19 miles. The sky was darker and less cloudy, but still, the stars were not as amazing as those nights in Kanab.

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Utah Vacation-Green River

Today, Andrew wasn’t feeling good, so we decided to stay close to home. I started with a short morning walk that led me to the city park where I found information about two rocket programs that once called Green River home. In the 1960s, the Air Force launched Athena missiles at New Mexico to test their missile defense systems. In the 1970s, the Army tested Pershing missiles in the area.

Athena rocket in the city park

After my walk, Mom and I drove to see the Green River Geyser. The word ‘geyser’ conjures up images of Old Faithful and Yellowstone National Park. This geyser was not like that at all. Apparently, they were drilling for oil in the area and discovered a water spring that was under pressure. The geyser occasionally sprays out cold water, but it is a rare site. The area around the geyser, however, is very colorful from all the minerals that are forced up.

Mom standing near the Cascade Geyser

While Mom and I explored the area, a small group floated up to shore from the river. We started talking about the geyser and the river. Turns out they were floating the Green River all the way down to just outside Canyonlands.

After seeing the geyser, we drove back out of the canyon to the abandoned missile location. Spread out over a few miles in the desert, we saw remnants of the operations. The site we stopped at was a little creepy, so I was in a hurry to get my picture and move on. Sometimes I wish I had a time machine so I could go back and see how things were in their heyday.

Mom taking a picture at an old missile facility

While planning the trip, Andrew and I found the railroad bridge crossing the Green River and thought it would be a great spot to fly the drone. On our first day, we went to the park near the bridge, but couldn’t get close. Today, Mom and I drove around until we found a street that went right past the bridge. Unfortunately, there were no trains crossing at this time. I’m sure I'll come back here later when Andrew is feeling better.

Railroad bridge crossing the Green River in Green River

By now, it was getting close to lunch time. Mom and I drove past the library and Amtrak station, then back to the house. The library was suffering from lack of care, like most old buildings in Green River. The missile programs provided a lot of jobs to the town. When they left, the town clearly suffered.

After lunch, Mom and I drove out to the Green River Municipal Airport. It was surprisingly far out of town, but the road was in great shape. Most roads that go out in the desert are dirt or unmaintained paved roads. The airport was small and had a couple planes parked on the tarmac. We stayed for a few minutes, then returned back to the house.

Andrew was feeling better, so we decided to do some more exploring together. We drove north out of town on Long Street and followed it to the end. Along the way, we passed a dam that diverts water into irrigation ditches. We also saw a small group of Sand Hill Cranes. They looked almost identical to those we see in Florida.

We returned to Green River, then went north on the east side of the river. We passed Swaseys Beach and continued to the end of the road. We stopped near the Nefertiti viewpoint, got out, walked around for a little bit, then started back to town.

David standing beside the Green River

On the drive back, Andrew wanted to fly the drone. The road was narrow with few pullouts, but we found a safe spot to stop. There was a family camping nearby, so I asked the father if he minded us flying a drone near his family. He was OK with the idea, so Andrew flew the drone over the river and along the canyon walls. He had to rush a little because the sun was quickly dropping behind the canyon walls.

On the way back to Green River, I decided to take a back road east towards Floy. I was hoping that we’d see the westbound California Zephyr. This back road was once the US route through this area before the interstate was built. Unfortunately, it was not maintained, so although it looked smooth, there were large, randomly spaced holes to detect and avoid. We reached Floy before the Amtrak, so we found a good spot and waited. The train came around a turn, blew past us, and continued into the sunset. We decided to take I-70 back to Green River.

Back in Green River, we wanted to try something local for dinner. Across Main Street from the road leading to our house is a place called Chow Hound. They have just about everything you might want, from breakfast donuts to burgers to ice cream to pizza. We ordered a pizza and picked it up before returning to the house.

The last time we were in Utah, we went out at night to see the stars. This time, we did the same thing. We found what looked like a good spot by looking at the maps on the dark sky web site. We drove miles down dirt roads before stopping. Andrew set up the tripod and snapped some long exposure shots. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see what we saw from Kanab. It was just not dark enough, or perhaps a little to cloudy.

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