Wednesday, September 9, 2020

Utah Vacation-Zion Kolob Canyons

Today started off cool, with the cold front still affecting temperatures. We decided to go to Kolob Canyons, which is in the Northwest corner of Zion National Park. We left around 10:00 AM and arrived around 11:30. The Visitor Center was closed and they were not collecting a fee to drive in; not that it mattered since we now have an Annual Pass. We were told by the Park Ranger that the arch on the Taylor Creek trail is still forming. If we want to see it when its complete and free-standing, we’ll need to come back in a million years.

The road through the canyon is only five miles long. It quickly climbs out of the valley and into the mountains. The best part about it is that it doesn’t keep you waiting very long. After a few minutes of climbing and turning, we came around a turn and had our first “Wow” moment. We were staring face to face with an enormous mountain of red stone.

Awe-inspiring mountain near the entrance to Kolob Canyons

We followed the road to Kolob Canyons Viewpoint, which is the end of the road. From there, we took the Timber Creek Overlook Trail. This was a short, easy trail along the spine of a ridge that ended with a fantastic view of the mountains forming the canyon and the Wasatch Mountains to the East.

Panoramic view of Kolob Canyons

After the hike, we stopped for lunch. We carried our cooler and dry supplies up to a picnic area along the trail. Usually, we would have hunted for a shady spot, but today was pretty chilly, so we took the table in the sun. We had to eat quickly because the bees were very interested in what was on our menu.

Next up was the Taylor Creek Trail to the Double Arch Alcove. This trail is 2.5 miles long with a 450 foot elevation change; most of it at the beginning. The trail started by dropping from the parking lot to the creek – which actually had water flowing in it – via about 50 log steps. I asked someone coming up how strenuous it was and she said that the steps up were the hardest part.

The trail followed the creek into a canyon, crossing it many times along the way. As we continued, the views become more and more awe inspiring. At one point, I quipped that this trail put the “Ah” in Utah. Andrew wanted to feel how cold, or warm, the water was, but didn’t want to touch it. I suggested that he should have brought one water shoe so he could walk in the creek with one foot and on the trail with the other.

About two miles in, Susan was ready for a break. She found a nice spot to sit down and Andrew and I continued quickly to the end of the trail. We were both amazed when we reached the end. First, it is so large that it is impossible to capture without wider angle lenses. The bottom is a giant arch that is also the base of a part-time waterfall. It has dark streaks and the cutout is filled with small plants. High above this arch is a second arch. I nearly had to hold on to something when looking up to the top of the cliff; it is a dizzying sight. Directly across the valley is another red cliff, stained with white streaks that reminded me of giant icicles.

Double arch alcove on the Taylor Creek Trail
"Icicles" on the high cliff wall

After about twenty minutes, we had our fill. We raced back down the trail to the spot we had left Susan, then continued together back to the parking lot. As predicted, those steps at the end were the most strenuous part of the hike.

We left the Kolob Canyons feeling somewhat exhausted, and fully satisfied. Our next challenge was to decided how to get back to the condo. We could either take the fast way, or take the slightly longer route through Zion National Park. We chose the latter.

Before entering Zion, one must pass through the town of Springdale. Being the week of Labor Day, we expected to see some large crowds. Springdale delivered. My first thought was that this town could survive purely on parking fees from visiting tourists. Everywhere I looked, I saw paid parking kiosks. My second thought was that this town wouldn’t exist without tourists. It reminded me a little of Gatlinburg, Tennessee, but not to the same extent. There were restaurants and gift shops everywhere.

We entered the park, showed our Annual Pass, and started our unforgettable journey. The road from one entrance to the other is only eleven miles, but it is the most incredible eleven miles of highway that one can imagine. In the first two miles, the road switches back on itself six times to gain about twelve hundred feet of elevation. During this time, you are presented with awe-inspiring views and the largest natural arch bridge I’ve ever seen. Also, the valley side of the road has extreme drop-offs that conjure terrifying thoughts of what would happen if one drove off the edge. After the last switchback, the road enters a tunnel that is not tall or wide enough for large trucks or trailers to pass. As a result, these vehicles must pay extra and Park Rangers have to block traffic in the opposite direction while they pass. Once out of the tunnel, the road continues to weave amongst amazing white cliffs. If you’re lucky, you may see a Bighorn Sheep standing on a cliff.

Once out of the park, we all sighed with wonder and amazement. The drive home, however, was not completely without surprises. At one point, we came to a section of highway with a “Road Damage” sign. We wondered what that meant until we came around a turn and noticed the road ahead had rising, falling, and twisting sections, similar to a roller coaster. It was quite the little thrill driving over it.

Finally, we made it back to the condo. What a fantastic day.

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